Without giving too much away, were there any waves you had your eyes set on?
Growing up at Long Reef, there’s quite a lot of outer reefs that I was hoping to surf. Also, I had Narrabeen and Queenscliff on my radar, but I also ventured a few hours up the coast on the Sunday of the swell when everything was a bit quieter and scored there as well.
Tell us about the equipment you had on hand.
I had eight boards in the car. Everything from 5’11” to 10’2”. And they ranged from single fins, thrusters and quads. I had something for every tide, every wind and every location. I don’t think I was too over-prepared as I nearly rode every single one of the boards over the course of the swell.
Do I dare say, the 5’11” would have been the last board you rode?
Absolutely, with the power of the swell you definitely wanted something bigger. I rode the Nathan Florence quad fin set up predominately in all my boards with the Big Wave Max leash, which was insane. It was almost a Hawaiian swell-period and it really allowed us to test out some big wave equipment in our own backyard.
What sort of board were you pairing the fins and leash with?
The 9’2” triple stringer Bob McTavish handshape, which was made for the more hollow bombies and then the 10’2” for the windy and maxxed-out open-ocean bombies. I rode the same fins and leggies the entire time.